Destination: | Nepal |
Maximum Altitude: | 7,134 meters |
Best Season: | Autumn & Winter |
Trip Grade: | Moderate |
Group Size: | 1 – 15 people |
Duration: | 36 Days |
The Tilicho Peak Expedition is one of the most captivating and challenging 7000m climbs in the Annapurna region. This adventure begins with a scenic trek along the Annapurna Circuit and culminates at the awe-inspiring Tilicho Lake, which is situated at an altitude of 4910m and holds the distinction of being the highest lake in the world.
Located approximately 210 km west of Kathmandu in the Manang District, this breathtaking location is guaranteed to leave visitors speechless. Tilicho Peak is the tallest point of the Great Barrier, which connects Khangsar Kang (7458m) and Nilgiri North (7061m).
The summit of Tilicho Peak offers unparalleled views of Tilicho Lake (4920m), whose vibrant aqua-blue waters lie at the base of the peak. This lake is the highest in the world. From the summit, climbers can take in the vast expanses of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs and gaze down at the Kali Gandaki Gorge, the world’s deepest gorge.
Tilicho Peak is technically demanding, with the standard route along the northwest shoulder consisting of a mix of rock, ice, and steep snowfields. Despite the technical challenges, the peak presents little objective danger due to the wide expanse of the shoulder. The summit rewards climbers with breathtaking panoramic views.
Situated to the north of Manang in the Annapurna region, Tilicho Peak rises to an impressive 7134m. Its snow-clad northeast ridge dominates the landscape, overlooking the high Kali Gandaki Valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east. Nearby lies the mysterious region of Mustang to the north. The primary climbing route follows the northwest shoulder, with the Base Camp (4800m) positioned at the lake’s northwest edge.
With fewer climbers venturing into the Annapurna mountain range, adventurers can immerse themselves in the majestic landscapes in near solitude. The summit of Tilicho Peak offers awe-inspiring views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, including peaks like Lamjung Himal (6932m), Annapurna IV (7525m), Annapurna III (7555m), Annapurna II (7939m), Gangapurna (7454m), and several other majestic snow-capped mountains.
The journey begins at Dharapani, along the Annapurna trekking route, and takes travelers through vibrant Tibetan Buddhist villages. These villages are rich in culture and adorned with religious symbols such as prayer flags, chortens (engraved stones), and gompas (monasteries). Along the way, trekkers will marvel at the stunning scenery and the unique Tibetan-style architecture.
The trek also includes sacred sites such as Muktinath, known for its 108 bull-shaped water spouts, which hold spiritual significance for both Buddhists and Hindus. The route transitions from subtropical landscapes in the lower regions to more arid, rugged terrain at higher altitudes, such as Manang, which experiences a colder, dry climate due to its elevation.
The crown jewel of this trek is undoubtedly the striking turquoise waters of Tilicho Lake and the towering Annapurna ranges that surround it.
Climbing Tilicho Peak requires prior experience with high-altitude expeditions, including successful summits of at least one 6000m peak and familiarity with technical mountaineering. While this experience does not necessarily need to be in Nepal, prior exposure to the local climbing culture and techniques is highly beneficial. Climbers will also gain valuable insights into the perspectives and expertise of local Sherpa leaders.
If you prefer a shorter expedition, the Destination Holiday team can arrange an express itinerary, reducing the trip to 24–25 days.
– A technically demanding and rewarding 7000m climb
– Scenic location by Tilicho Lake, the world’s highest lake
– Fewer climbers, offering a more secluded experience
– Rich cultural encounters in remote villages resembling Tibetan traditions
– Opportunities to test and refine high-altitude climbing skills
– Expert guidance from experienced Sherpa climbing guides
– Well-organized camps and logistics
Tilicho Peak (7134m/23,406ft) is one of the most technically challenging 7000m climbs. The journey follows the classic Annapurna Circuit trekking route to Manang village before heading toward Tilicho Lake via Khangsar and Besi Khola. From the Base Camp, climbers ascend to High Camp I (5800m/19,029ft), located below the northwest shoulder on a steep 45-degree section of mixed rock and ice terrain.
Camp II (6100m/20,013ft) lies further up the northwest shoulder, accessed via a 50-degree, 500m-long snowfield. The shoulder itself, stretching 700m at a 50-degree incline, presents minimal objective hazards due to its width. Climbers will use fixed ropes for sections approaching Camp II (6300m/20,669ft).
The standard route to the Advanced Base Camp begins in Besishahar and follows the Marsyangdi Valley. This approach, taking approximately eight days, allows for excellent acclimatization. After summiting Tilicho Peak, there are two options to return to Kathmandu. One involves crossing the Thorong La Pass (5416m/17,769ft), followed by a flight from Jomsom to Pokhara. The other option is to traverse the more challenging Mesokanto Pass (5300m) before flying from Jomsom to Pokhara.
At the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking views of the Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tilicho Lake, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Kali Gandaki Valley, the deepest gorge in the world.
The base camp, located at 4800m/15,748ft, lies at the foot of Tilicho Peak, which rises 2300m above the picturesque Tilicho Lake. Climbers ascend from the base camp to Camp I, traverse a 45-degree section of mixed rock and ice, and then continue to Camp II along a 50-degree snowfield. The final summit push involves climbing a 50-60 degree, 750-850m snowfield along the wide northwest shoulder, ensuring minimal exposure.
With guidance from the expert Satori Climbing Sherpa team, climbers ascend to Camp I, Camp II, and ultimately to the summit for a truly unforgettable mountaineering experience.
The itinerary to Tilicho Peak Expedition as follows:
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