Pumari expedition takes you to one of the pearls of the Himalayas, which has been attracting both simple and experienced climbers for decades. Pumari is one of the most beautiful and accessible peaks in Nepal. The approach to the Base camp does not take much time and is very fascinating trekking.

Pumori Peak at the height of 7161 m, is located in the Khumbu-Himal Range, part of the Chomolungma mountain junction. The Western Rongbuk and Khumbu glaciers flow around the ridge from the south and north. Among the Earopeans, the members of the British reconnaissance expedition (1921) were the first to see the peaks of Lingtren Pumori, and Nuptse. Seeing a beautiful mountain from the Rongbuk glacier. Pumori, is a Sherpa word; meaning (“Unmarried Daughter”).

The Khumbu Himal is the border between Nepal and China. The borderline is very conditional. When approaching the summit from the south from Nepal, there are no obstacles for crossing the northern (Tibet China) side of the ridge. Therefore, ascents to the summit are carried out from all sides. Since it is located in a high-altitude naval zone, there is no vegetation on the rocks and moraine deposits of glaciers.

The classic route for this trek is along the southern ridge. The reward for climbing this one of the most magnificently beautiful, and it will be a fantastic view that opens from the top of Pumori- you can simultaneously see four eight- thousand at once – Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Nuptse, and Cho-Oyu.

Climbing the Himalayan peak begins with very beautiful and majestic scenery along approach form Lukla airport through the Nepalese mountains, the ascent to the villages of Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche, and crossing the Khumbu Glaciers.
Gorak Shep becomes the last point before going to the top along the classic route. On the site of the base camps of the former Everest expeditions, the Sherpa’s built a small settlement with wooden huts ( lodge) a café, and a helipad.

For climbers on Pumori, the village of Gorak Shep is especially convenient, as it eliminates the need to set up your own base camp. If you climb from Gorak Shep up the Khumbu glacier you can see the entire classic route to the mountain.

In the beginning of the route, ropes were hung by the previous climber groups, so you can save your own equipment for difficult sections of the route. The first camp is set up at an altitude of 5800. There are convenient platforms on a stone hill from where it is possible to work the icefall leading to the southeastern ridge.

On the descent, which passes along the ascent path, climbers must be careful and attentive. The desire to descend quickly, intensified by fatigue, leads to accidents. Te entire journey to Pumori takes a trained group 5-6 days.

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The expedition permit cost to mount Pumori depends on the season you choose for your trek. Since the spring season is considered the peak and most favorable for the climb, the expedition permit fee set by the Nepal government is $500 per person. The trek in the autumn season will cost you little more than in the winter and summer.

The costs that you exclusively have to pay include Nepal tourist Visa cost, Kathmandu stay, your personal expenses, tips to porter and guide, and travel and medical insurance.

BEST SEASON FOR PUMORI EXPEDITION

Although the Nepal government issues the climbing permit for all seasons the most favorable season for climbing Pumori and viewing it in all its glory would be the spring season, from April to May, as the temperature at the foot of Pumori does not exceed+18C in these months making your trek exemplary.

In the winter season, from late December to February the temperature in Pumori drops to 35c and lower depending on wind currents). However, the winter season is more favorable than the summer season (June to August). It will have a minimal risk of ice falls due to low temperatures and a long absence of snowfall during this period.

During the monsoon period (mid-may-September), climbing Pumori is unsuitable due to snowfalls and the avalanche danger. There will be a lot of snowfall around September, so avalanches may frequently occur day and night.

The other favorable time period to trek to Pumori is from the latter half of November to early December (autumn season). The season is marked by the stability of snow, calm wind, and moderate day time temperature.

HOW HARD IS PUMORI TO CLIMB?

If you follow the classic route along the south-eastern ridge, your trek to Pumori will be relatively simple, easy, and less challenging. The technical difficulty is not high, and there’s less possibility of an avalanche. The other normal route that you can take is through the southern ridge. It is the second most climbed after the usual route, and although there is little danger of avalanches, there are many elements of rock climbing that require skill and power.

However, you shouldn’t underestimate the potential risk of high peak climbing such as Pumori. Skills of walking on difficult ice terrain, mastering the techniques of climbing along the railing, descending with a rappel, teamwork, physical and mental fitness, and periodic acclimatization are key to success at the summit.