Lhotse Expedition (8,516m)

Lhotse Expedition

On the Lhotse Expedition climbers are attempting the fourth highest peak in the world (8516m). Lhotse, which means ‘south peak’, is part of the Everest massif. After several expedition teams had attempted to climb this mountain, it was first successfully climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. The lower peak, Lhotse Shar (8383m), is generally considered as a separate 8000m peak.

Lhotse East, Lhotse Central and Lhotse Shar

Mount Lhotse, being the fourth highest peak in the world, lies 3km to the south of Everest. The 8516m high mountain lies in the border of Tibet and Nepal. Mt Lhotse is a part of Everest Massif separated by the South Col and consists of 3 peeks Lhotse (8516 m), Lhotse East (8414 m), and Lhotse Shar (8383 m).

South Face of Lhotse has one of the largest, dramatic and the steepest mountain faces in the globe. Khumbu Icefall, a part of the Lhotse Expedition climbing, has been acknowledged as the most dangerous due to the constant change of the structure of the glacier. In 1956, a Swiss expedition successfully ascended Mt Lhotse for the first time.

Mt. Lhotse Expedition is 45 days long expedition where we climb Mount Lhotse, the altitude of 8,516 m /27,940 ft, via the normal route. As Lhotse is a part of the Everest Massif, the route of the Lhotse Expedition is pretty much the same as Everest Expedition. The journey to the Lhotse expedition advances through The Khumbu Icefall. The route progresses from Base Camp of Everest to Khumbu Icefall following the trail from Camp I to Camp 4. Camp 1, located at the top of Khumbu Icefall, will have an altitude of 5900m. And we reach Camp II at the altitude of 6400m which allows a great view of Lhotse. After crossing the ice cliffs and glaciers, we will reach the site of Camp III. Camp 3 is located at an altitude of 7,300 m. And finally, we set our camp 4 at the altitude of 7900m and follow the steep trail to the summit.

LHOTSE EXPEDITION BEST CLIMBING SEASON

And the best season for this journey is in Spring (April-May). However, it’s also available in Autumn (August-October) which is also a great season for a trek in this region.

Destination:	Nepal
Maximum Altitude:	8,516 meters
Best Season:	Spring & Winter
Trip Grade:	Extreme Challenging
Group Size:	1 – 15 people
Duration:	50 Days

Included

Airport/Hotel/airport transfers
5 nights’ accommodation at 3 star hotel in Kathmandu on twin sharing basis with breakfast and all taxes
Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla– Kathmandu and all your luggage to Lhotse Base Camp and back to Lukla
Lhotse Expedition Government Royalty
All camping facilities and meals during the expedition including a tent (one member = one tent) at Base camp.
Kitchen and Dining equipment, Eating utensils, Shower Tents, Toilet Tent, Store Tent, etc
All porter wages costs from Kathmandu to lhotse base camp Base camp and back to Kathmandu
All costs for support staff (guide, cook, kitchen helpers, and porters)
Liaison officer, his fee, daily wages, equipment, clothing, accommodation, flight, meals, and insurance
All our base camp staffs, porters, Climbing Sherpas, insurance, and their daily wages, and their equipment allowance.
All breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea, Coffee from during the trekking and Base Camp and till back to Kathmandu.
Generator and Solar Panel at Base Camp
National park fee
Treking Guide and Base Camp Manager, his daily wages, insurance, equipment allowance, meals, accommodation etc
Climbing Rope Fixing fee for Expedition operators Association of Nepal
Satellite phone for Emergency use
Necessary 0xyzen and mask regulator
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea, Coffee, Hot wate for shower at lhotse base camp
Three time meal and tea, coffee during the trekking
SPCC(Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) Garbage fee / Environmental Fee
4L poise 3 bottle for member and 2 bottle for guide and mask and regulator for summit

Excluded

International flights and airport taxes.
Visa fees.
Bar bills and laundry.
Travel insurance.
Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
Tips for driver, guide, porter, BC staff and climbing Sherpas
Successful Climbing Bonus for the Sherpa – (USD 1500 recommended)
Personal Climbing Gear

Itenary

Itenary to Lhotse Expedition as follows:

Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu (1300 m) and transfer to the hotel.

Once you arrive at Tribhuwan Airport, the destination holiday trek will escort you to hotelat Thamel. You can relax there or explore the city. Our guide will arrive in the evening to discuss and prepare you for your trip to Mt. Lhotse Expedition.

Day 02 – 03 : Preparing expedition in Kathmandu

In these 2 days, we will make the final preparations and arrangements for your journey. You will meet your team, guides, and Sherpa and complete the government formalities like Expedition Permit, National Park permits, and related documentation. Our team will brief you about the climb to Mt. Lhotse via the normal route.

Day 04 : Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2610m)

We start our Lhotse Expedition with a domestic flight to Lukla of about 35 mins. Established between a cliff and a hill with a short landing strip, Lukla Airport is known as one of the most dangerous airports in the world. We will then trek to Phakding (8km) which will take 3-4 hours. There are many cultural villages and you can view gorgeous Mount Khumbila and Mount KusumKangraru along the way. We will stay overnight at Phakding.

Day 05 : Trek to Namche Bazaar stay lodge (3440 m)

On the 5th day of our Expedition, we will trek up to Namche Bazaar along the DudhKoshi River. There are pine forests and several suspension bridges in the path we cross. We will also get to see the gateway of Sagarmatha National Park in Monjo. We will get our permits, there and climb to Namche Bazaar and stay there overnight. This trek will be 10 km and will take up to 5 hours.

Day 06 : Acclimatization day in Namche Bazar

Acclimatization day is a day to rest and to let our bodies adapt to the surrounding. Namche Bazar is the main trading center for the high Himalayas. There are a lot of cafes and restaurants there and the market is very lively and has a harmonious atmosphere. There is internet access and also has facilities of the hospital, post office, and a health post. There will be a short hike to explore the nearby villages as well.

Day 07 : Trek Namche - Deboche (3820m)

On day 7, we will head to Deboche. This trial will go along the glacial of the DudhKoshi River and extends to 11 km and will take 5/6 hrs. However, it gives a spectacular view of Mount Everest, Mt AmaDablam, Mt Nuptse, and numerous other mountains. The path goes along the forest of beautiful blooming Rhododendron to Sanasa. When we arriveSanasa we will reach a junction point which leads us to either Gokyo Valley or the Everest Base Camp. We take the second route and climb up the Tengboche Monastery and visit. This Monastery celebrates a 19 days colorful festival called Mani Rimdu in October or November. Witnessing this celebration will be an amazing experience. We will reach Deboche and spend the night there in a lodge.

Day 08 : Trek Deboche(3820m) to Dingboche (4410m)

Day 8 of our Lhotse Expedition will be a trek of 11 km which takes up to 6 hours. We descend to Imja River and then trek uphill to dense forest to the village of Pangboche. And walking past the steep Pheriche to the Lobuche River, we climb a steep hill and finally reach Dingboche also known as the Summer Valley in Khumbu region. We can see exotic views of Mt Makalu, Imja River, and open savannahs. Not to mention the fields of buckwheat, barley, and potatoes. We will rest the night in Dingboche.

Day 09 : Acclimatization day (4900m)

Day 9 is to rest and let your body adapt to the weather and surrounding. There are local villages that you can visit and get deeper insights into the culture and the lifestyles of the Sherpas. We will also go on a hike to Chukung village and even climb ChukungRi if you want. It has a phenomenal view of natural beauty and the Himalayas like Mt Cho Oyu, Mt Pumori, and the Lhotse wall.

Day 10 : Trek to Chukung (4730m)

On day 10 of the Lhotse Expedition, we will take a trek from Dingboche to Chukung which is located close to Island Peak. The route to Chukung has beautiful sceneries of the Himalayas. We will stay in a lodge for the night

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Day 11 : Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5200m)

Day 11 of the Lhotse Expedition gets rougher as the trail has boulders and glaciated rivers. We progress across through Lhotse glacier and arrive at the Base Camp for Island Peak, which has a magnificent view of the Island Peak. We will spend the night and rest at the Base Camp.

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Day 12 : Climbing Training

Day 12 will be for giving you training for pre climbing by our team. Mountain climbing techniques, using climbing tools and gears like ascender, harness, etc properly. You will also receive training on how to use ropes during our climb and what safety measures to take. For practice sessions, you can climb up to High camp and then back to base Camp. We will rest the night in the Island peak base camp

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Day 13 : Summit Island Peak (6,119m) and back to Chukung

Our Day 13 target of Lhotse Expedition is to climb the top of Island Peak. We will start the journey early in the morning. The route is moderate at first but has a steep hillside as you reach near the peak. The surrounding of the trail frequently changes and the views are amazing but the scenery from the peak is something you will experience as breathtaking. As you advance through the glaciers with the help of ropes, the temperature drops. The weather during the afternoon can be risky so we advance to reach the summit before noon. Once you reach the top, you will be able to see an astounding view of the gracious white snow-capped mountains like Mt Nuptse, Mt Lhotse, Makalu, AmaDablam, and Mt Baruntse.

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Day 14 : Trek to Lobuche (4910m)

We will advance our journey by heading east and follow the dangerous region of this climb, the Khumbu Icefall via Kongma La. Though there are no settlements in this area, we can still find amazing and beautiful views of the Island Peak and AmphuLapcha Pass. We will proceed to the path along the river to reach our destination and stay overnight at Lobuche

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Day 15 : Trek from Lobuche to Gorekshep (5170 m)

We pass through Khumbu Glacier where we can find memorials of many climbers ourselves. Amongst them are the memorials of 6 Sherpas who had died in an avalanche. Across the Khumbu Glacier, we will reach the ChangriNup glacier and then to Gorekshep. This trail will be 11 km and will take about 5-6 hours.

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Day 16 : Trek to Lhotse Base Camp / Everest Base camp (5,364m)

We will start our day early on day 16 for trekking to Everest Base camp. Our journey today will take about 3/4 hours. The path gets harder and challenging as we ascend the altitude. But the snow-covered surroundings and view of the majestic mountains make it worthwhile. We walk through the rocky dunes to finally reach The Base Camp where we meet up with the rest of the team.

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Day 17-20 : Lhotse Base Camp

During these days, our first target is well Acclimatization at Lhotse Base Camp/ Everest base camp and you can see the views of snow surrounding you everywhere as well as mount Pumori, Nuptse, and Lola. Lhotse Base Camp/Everest BC is located 5,36 m from sea level.

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Day 21-22 : Trek to Camp I (5,900m)

Base Camp to Camp I is a mixed climb of about 750 meters climbing route with few steep covered with snow, ice, and rocky walls. On day 21 of the Lhotse Expedition, we will trek and cross the famous Khumbu Glacier by ladder up to Camp I. Climbing up to Camp I can be hard because of your first-day climbing experience and walking on the ladder. So the ascend will take place early. This will be just an attempt to make you familiar with the routes and the difficulties so that you are well prepared for the final time. We will stay overnight at Camp I.

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Day 23 : Stay at Base Camp.

On Day 23, we will stay at the base camp. This day will be your rest period as well as training. We will also prepare for the trek to Camp I once again.

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Day 24-25 : Trek to Camp I (5,900m)

We will start our trek early in the morning and head for Camp I. This time the path will be more familiar and it will be easier. After about 7 hours you will reach Camp I once again. We will stay there for 2 days. These days are for your rest and acclimatization and from the camp one you will get to enjoy a beautiful view of the surroundings and the mountains as you prepare to ascend Camp II.

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Day 26-27 : Trek to Camp II (6,400m)

On day 26, we will climb up to Camp II which is located at the bottom of West ridge. You pass the gorge and reach Lhotse Camp II after climbing about 1300m in 9-10 hours. You will get to see a magnificent view of the Lhotse and Everest. We will stay here for 2 days for letting your body adapt to the surroundings and get rest before climbing up to Camp III. Most climbers feel most interesting climbing to Camp II with the route accompanied by the big steep faces on Ice climbing and by ladder climbing.

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Day 28-29 : Trek to Base Camp III (7100m)

We start our Day 28 with a climb to Camp III, which may be difficult for some climbers because of the effects of high altitude. The climb to Camp III mostly uses ropes as the steeps have ranged from 30 to 45 degrees. We will rest there for the night and the following day. This climb was an attempted climb so that your body adapts to the surroundings and to be more familiar with the route.

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Day 30 : Back to Camp II

On day 30, we climb down back to Camp II and rest there for the night.

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Day 31-36 : Camp II (6400 m)

We will stay in the base camp II for 2 days at rest. Camp II will be your second base camp and you will stay many days here to avoiding cross the Great Khumbu Glacier and ladder walking. We will rest there several days for better acclimatization.

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Day 37-38 : From Camp II to Camp III (7100 m)

Our target on day 37 will be to climb up to Camp III, those climbers who felt uneasy the first time may feel better now as their body will have adapted. After a difficult climb up to Camp III we will rest. We spend the next day there too for rest.

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Day 39 : Camp IV (7900 m, 8 hrs)

On our day 39 of the Lhotse Expedition, we will ascend to Camp IV, which is located at 7900 m. The face raises at 40-45 degrees and will take about 8-hour climb. This is the last camp and closer to our destination. We will rest there and prepare for the final ascent.

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Day 40 : Camp IV to Summit. (8,516 m, 10 Hours)

Our final ascent of the Lhotse Expedition will take place on day 40. It is a 12-hour climb. Since the weather is not constant in the afternoon, we start our climb at 12:00 is. The climb will be very difficult and our climbing Sherpa and climbing guides will take you through safe routes. While climbing up to the summit, we will come across steeps that range from 40-45 degrees and sometimes an 80-degree bulge. So you need to be very careful.

The climb is difficult and tiring but once you reach the top, it will be worth the hard work. You will get to see the panoramic view of Mount Everest (8848 m), AmaDablam (6856 m), Nuptse (7879m), the South Col, Khumbu glacier, and the snow-covered region for as far as you can see. After resting a while we will start to descend back to Camp II as soon as possible. The wind and weather can be very rough and unpredictable in the afternoon. We will stay at Camp II and rest there for the night.

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Day 41 : Camp II to Base camp

On day 41 of the Lhotse Expedition, our goal for the day is to climb back down to Base camp early morning. We will stay at the Base Camp.

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Day 44 :Trek base camp to Pheriche

After conquering Lhotse, we begin to descend from Lhotse Base Camp to Pheriche. The trek will cover 14 km and take 7 hours to reach Pheriche. We stay overnight at Pheriche.

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Day 45 : Trek Pheriche to Namche bazaar

On day 45 of the Lhotse Expedition, we trek back to Namche Bazar. We can enjoy the view as we descend down. The trail will be a 7-hour long journey and will cover up to 15 km. We will rest there for the night

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Day 46 : Trek Namche bazaar to Lukla

From Namche Bazaar to Lukla, we walk down the Namche Bazaar to follow the same downward steps. And we will also cross the checkpoint of Sagarmatha National Park to reach Lukla. It is a 7 -8-hour journey of 18 km which is not a hard path. We rest at a local lodge and prepare for the flight tomorrow.

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Day 47 : Fly to Kathmandu airport

There will be an early flight to Kathmandu which will take about 35 mins. We will book you a hotel for your day off from the long and tiring climb

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Day 48-49 : Free days Kathmandu

You can take these days to explore Kathmandu and the nearby cities like Patan and Bhaktapur. Take a tour of the Durbar Square, visit museums and cultural sites. There are many pubs, restaurants, cafes, and spas that you might enjoy as well. You can also visit the temples and heritage sites to explore our culture.

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Day 50 : Transfer to airport from Hotel for departure

This is your departure day. One of our staff will take you to the airport for your flight. We hope you enjoyed this journey and took in memories that will be exciting and thrilling to remember and share with your loved ones.